Browsing by Subject "Silk"
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- PublicationOpen AccessForensic examination of textile fibres using Raman imaging and multivariate analysis(Elsevier B.V., 2021-12-03) Ortega-Ojeda, Fernando E.; García-Ruiz, Carmen; Zapata Arráez, Félix; Química Analítica; Facultades,Servicios y Escuelas::Facultades de la UMU::Facultad de QuímicaVibrational spectroscopic techniques have shown to be highly suitable for the identification and comparison of textile fibres and clothing fabrics. On the other hand, new chemical imaging modes based on these spectroscopic techniques are becoming useful in multiple fields. This is particularly important to, for instance, chemically visualize and screen different samples including forensic evidence (crime scene investigation), chemical and food products (quality control), biological tissues and living beings (medical imaging), among others. This study explores the forensic examination and selective chemical visualization of textile fibres and clothing fabrics using Raman imaging. Four experiments were performed, which were focused on the screening of (i) white different materials made of 100 % cotton (gauze, cotton wool, t-shirt, and swab), (ii) polyester and cotton fabrics evidence of the same colour, (iii) five different coloured cotton fabrics, and (iv) textile fibres of different materials (acrylic, cotton, nylon, polyester, and silk). Several methods of multivariate chemometric analysis including principal component analysis (PCA), multivariate analysis of variance (MANOVA), and multivariate curve resolution (MCR) were applied to enhance the limited visual comparison of the spectra accomplished with the unaided eye. The results evidenced the suitability of Raman imaging to statistically discriminate textile fibres and fabrics due to the chemical composition of both the clothing material and the dyestuff.
- PublicationOpen AccessGlobal goods, silver and market integration: consumption of wine, silk and porcelain through The Grill Company via Macao-Canton and Marseille-Seville trade nodes, 18th Century(Cambridge University Press, 2019-09-23) Pérez García, Manuel; Economía aplicadaNew global history studies have provided theoretical models related to different paths of economic growth and consumer behaviour between East Asia (mainly China and Japan) and Europe during the period of the first industrialisation. However, more research challenging the Eurocentric views of the origins of globalisation is needed. In this article, I examine the exchanges of Chinese silks and porcelains and European wines and liquors for American silver through the Swedish Grill Company. This company had extensive business activities in Canton and Macao establishing strategic links and intermediation with other relevant companies from China, Manila, Seville and Marseille. On the global level, such exchanges played a crucial role for the accumulation of American silver in China during the Qing dynasty, and the outflows of Chinese goods to the Americas and Europe fostered market integration and globalisation that occurred earlier than 1820.
- PublicationOpen AccessLos inicios de la nueva industria sedera en Toledo (1475-1508).(Sociedad Española de Estudios Medievales, 2021) Rozas Español, ÁngelEl presente artículo trata sobre los inicios de una nueva forma de producción de tejidos de seda en la ciudad de Toledo a finales del siglo XV: el terciopelo. Se examina las formas de producción en fechas anteriores y la manera en la que se introduce esta nueva modalidad productiva, así como su desarrollo en los siglos siguientes. Un hecho clave para la comprensión de este proceso son las ordenanzas de tejer terciopelo de Toledo del año 1485. A partir de esta reglamentación y de los protocolos notariales toledanos se ofrece una imagen de la organización productiva de esta actividad en la ciudad.